Written by Apoua Fuatavai-McBrien, Southland Beneficiaries and Community Rights Centre
We journeyed by bus from Auckland to Northland for Retreat Two (Va Fonua, Fanua, Fenua, ‘Enua, Whenua). I had never traversed north of Auckland. I was on an adventure and as I sighted the big sign spelling out `whatever’ - how Auckland I thought, laughing with my 2021 Cohort of The Mana Moana Experience and feeling that whatever comes I will embrace it.
We stopped at Waitangi - the birthplace of our nation. Passing the houses and hotels, motels. Along the curve of the bay. My eyes were drawn to the Moana, the glistening blue/green. The beauty was breathtaking. As we got closer to the treaty grounds, I kept my eyes fixed on the water. This was my first time here. I was reminded of my Waitangi Days of the early 80s in The Octagon standing in solidarity with our Māori brothers and sisters gathering signatures, handing out pamphlets. Honour the treaty ka whawhai tonu mātou āke āke āke. I reflected on how far we have come as a nation and how much more we need to do to fulfil our treaty obligations. To be a good treaty partner - and what it means for me as a child of the Pacific.
Kohewhata Marae was our base for this retreat. What a privilege to be nestled here. To be welcomed and fed. To sit in our circle, on our fala and receive knowledge. To share, have dialogue, to laugh and cry. Venturing out to local sights and returning to this safe space. To rest and sleep surrounded by Pou and ancestors. Casting off the cloak of city dwelling, making a living and surviving modern life. Healing through lomi lomi. Healing through being open and vulnerable and being together, working together. A taste of how our ancestors lived. We still have this in our Island homes and villages.
Despite the Doctrine of Discovery and colonisation, we are connected to the fanua and it is connected to us. We are a part of it, not apart from it. We sustain and heal each other. Our ancestors more than knew this, they lived it. They passed on ancestral knowledge through our languages, customs and stories attesting to their intimate relationship and understandings.
Taking care of fanua is an act of self-love. Addressing current issues of climate change. Water, land and air pollution acts of self-love and self-healing. Knowing our place, connecting and relating to fanua is sacred, spiritual and involves learning the ways of love.
I was two years old when we emigrated to Aotearoa. 51 years later, I returned (to Samoa). Arriving at Faleolo Airport at night. I disembarked the plane, walked across the tarmac, entered the airport terminal and felt something shift in me. A huge exhale. The climate, the murmur of voices speaking Samoan, the smells - I felt I knew this and I felt awake and alive. Because I knew I was home. A feeling I had never felt in all the years away and never knew I had missed and had been longing for - until in that moment. I was standing on my fanua, and my younger sister commented in the van, “Why are you smiling like that?” When I answered, “I’m happy because I am home”, she looked at me like I was crazy and said, “But you left here when you were a baby.”
The Mana Moana Experience for me is purposeful and liberating. It is deep diving to your core to bring out what has always been there, the treasure of self that has been hidden. A gift from the ancestors. Journeying with my brave Mana Moana family. Hearing and seeing the wisdom and truth from living legends. Rediscovering life and love in a Pacific Mana Moana way. All things are connected. Love of the Fanua. Love of the people.